Newly hatched axolotl larvae are tiny, translucent commas about 10–13 mm long, with feathery external gills and no limbs. For the first 24–48 hours they survive on the yolk sac inside their bellies; during this brief grace period they require no food. The length of the yolk reserve depends on water temperature – cooler water can extend it to roughly 72 hours, while warmer water may deplete it in a single day. Once the yolk disappears, live, moving prey becomes essential, or the larvae will starve.
Set up a shallow rearing container before the eggs finish hatching. A 20 cm‑diameter glass or plastic bowl filled to a depth of 5–10 cm works best because tiny larvae feed poorly in deep water and need to encounter food by bumping into it. Keep the bowl free of filters and substrate; currents stress the gills and gravel traps both waste and food. Up to 50 similarly sized larvae can share a bowl while they remain under 20 mm. Place the container in a cool, low‑light spot and maintain a temperature of 16–20 °C.
The first food for axolotl larvae must be live and motile. Newly hatched brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii) are the standard starter because they are tiny, constantly swimming, and easy to culture on demand. Live daphnia or Moina are excellent alternatives; they survive longer in fresh water, giving the larvae multiple chances to capture prey. Microworms can be used as a backup, but they should not be the sole food source. Frozen or dead foods are ignored by larvae under 20 mm, leading to rapid starvation and water fouling.
To hatch brine shrimp, dissolve about 25 g of non‑iodized salt per litre of dechlorinated water (approximately seawater strength), add Artemia cysts, and aerate gently with an airline (no airstone). Keep the jar at 26–28 °C; most cysts hatch in 18–24 hours. Once hatched, turn off the air, let shells settle, siphon the orange nauplii, and rinse them in fresh water before feeding. Rinsing removes residual salt, protecting the larvae’s fresh‑water environment.
Feeding frequency is size‑dependent. Larvae 10–20 mm (the first two weeks) should receive live food two to three times daily. As they grow to 20–40 mm (weeks 2–4) reduce feeding to once or twice a day. Once they reach 40–75 mm (weeks 4–8) a single daily feed of larger prey such as chopped blackworms, small earthworm pieces, or soft pellets is sufficient. A well‑fed larva displays a visibly full, rounded belly; flat bellies indicate underfeeding, which quickly leads to cannibalism as hungry siblings attack each other.
Because larvae are kept in small, unfiltered containers, water quality is maintained through frequent water changes rather than biological filtration. Perform a 100 % water change daily for cups and shallow bowls, and replace roughly 50 % of the water each day in 5–10 L tubs. Change the water before feeding and again within 24 hours after feeding to remove waste from uneaten brine shrimp, which decompose rapidly. Use a baking‑soda‑to‑salt cleaning solution (2:1 ratio) for any reused containers, rinse thoroughly, and refill with temperature‑matched, dechlorinated water.
Cannibalism is a natural behavior in axolotl larvae and can be dramatically reduced by size‑sorting. Begin sorting every 7–10 days once size variation appears (often by day 10–14). Use a wide pipette or cup – never a net – to transfer individuals, and group them with siblings of similar length. Keeping larvae well‑fed and providing low‑light, heavily planted cover further reduces aggressive encounters. Injured larvae should be isolated in a clean cup to heal; axolotls can regenerate lost toes, limb tips, and gill filaments within a few weeks if water conditions remain optimal.
As larvae grow, they outgrow their initial containers. Transition them through three stages: (1) 10–25 mm in deli cups or shallow bowls (200–500 mL per animal, up to ~50 per bowl); (2) 25–50 mm in small tubs of 5–10 L (0.5–1 L per animal, no more than ~25 per tub); and (3) 50 mm+ in a cycled grow‑out tank of 20–40 L (under 10 individuals, or solitary housing). At the third stage a gentle sponge filter can be added, provided it is covered with a pre‑filter to prevent larvae from being drawn in.
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Source: https://exopetguides.com/axolotls/axolotl-larvae-care-guide/
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